Day 1: Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Roncesvalles 27km, 1300m ascent.

I started with the first train from Bayonne into the Pyrenees, a very beautiful ride along a river valley, with lush, verdant foothills sweeping past us. Credencíal (stamped pilgrim passport) acquired in the small village of Saint Jean Pied du Port, Lorenzo and I started out on a long 20 km upward march to the top of the Pyrenees, crossing into Spain on the first day.

It’s said to be the biggest day of the Camino Francés, and proved to be one of the harder days of walking I’d done so far. The climb was gradual, on fairly easy terrain, but quite relentless. After a few hours, we walked into the clouds and stopped for coffee and tortilla whilst chatting to Nicole, a charming older French lady who had finished for the day.

Further up the hill, we bumped into another group of folks who had met earlier, and ended up walking the rest of the day with them. After what seemed like an age of walking with very low visibility, we finally broke through the clouds and we were greeted with stunning views of the Pyrenees.

After a really steep descent, we finally got down to Roncesvalles, where a huge, 200 bed albergue is situated. Our group exchanged details, then we all checked in and met for dinner later. We ate well, I got a bit drunk, accidentally stoned and slept like I’d just walked from another country.